This video and training is part of the Grunge Obedience Concept, a structured programme to promote obedience and the bond between humans and dogs. The concept is carefully didactic and methodical to ensure that each exercise builds on the previous one for maximum effectiveness. It is crucial that you carry out the training in the intended order to achieve the best possible results for your dog.

Dogs are incredibly adaptable and learn quickly - but only what we actually teach them. Our expectations are often far too high: we think that our dog will be able to do everything perfectly after a few training sessions. But as with us humans, practice makes perfect for dogs. It would be unrealistic to expect a dog to be a "model pupil" after just eight weeks. Eight weeks is a great start to give your dog a solid foundation, but the work doesn't end there.

The key thing to remember is that your dog can only do what you have consistently taught him. A "sit" in the living room does not automatically mean that it will also work outside in the park. Why is that? For your dog, these are completely different situations with different stimuli. Just as you wouldn't expect to master a new skill perfectly in every situation, your dog will need time and practice to transfer what it has learnt to other environments.

As dog owners, we often have somewhat unrealistic expectations of our dogs and take the associated frustration out on our dogs' backs. You should only expect your dog to do what you have explicitly practised with him. For example, if you practise a "sit" at home, you should not expect your dog to perform the "sit" correctly in a park, as this creates a completely new stimulus for your dog. Training correctly also means practising what you expect your dog to do later on.

Did you know that clear goals make your training more effective? You can define your training goals according to the SMART principle (Specific, Measurable, Attractive, Realistic, Time-bound).

For example: "Today I want my dog to respond reliably to the 'sit' signal in three different environments." This gives you clarity and your dog the chance to learn exactly what you want. According to a study by the Dominican University of California, people who write down their goals are more successful in achieving them. So feel free to write down small milestones - it will help you and your dog!

Dogs' brains work differently to ours. While we as humans are able to apply learned concepts flexibly, dogs are more dependent on practising in exactly the same environment and under the same conditions in which they will later perform the behaviour. A dog can only understand a behaviour as "common knowledge" once it has practised and experienced it in many different contexts. This is why it is so important for dogs to extend their training to different situations.

There are good days and bad days - for us and our dogs. This means that one day your dog sits perfectly and the next day he seems to have forgotten everything. Don't panic! Such regressions are completely normal.

Stay patient and remember: it's okay to take breaks. Sometimes it's enough to stop training for the day and continue on another day. Pressure and frustration won't help you or your dog. The more relaxed you are, the more successful the training will be in the long term.

As with children, dogs also have a limited concentration span. A young brain can often only concentrate for 5-10 minutes. It is therefore better to train short units with breaks than long sessions that overtax your dog.

Your dog will let you know when he is tired or overwhelmed. However, it is just as important as taking breaks to avoid underchallenging your dog. A dog needs mental and physical exercise - about two hours of active activity a day. Rest and exercise must be in a healthy balance to avoid stress and boredom.

Let's start with rewards, probably the most important pillar in training your dog. It's not just about food or treats - although these are often the most effective and direct motivators. There are different types of rewards that can be appealing to your dog, and it's important that you choose the right reward for the situation.

Positive reinforcement means that you give your dog something pleasant as soon as he shows a desired behaviour. This method is based on the fact that dogs learn through repetition and reward. Every time your dog performs a certain behaviour - for example "sit" - it receives a reward. As a result, he understands that this behaviour is worthwhile and will perform it more often in the future.

Studies show that dogs respond particularly well to social interaction as a reward. This means that petting, a smile or verbal praise can often be just as effective as a treat. If your dog responds strongly to food, you can use food rewards to teach him new behaviours. However, make sure the treats are small and tasty so they don't interrupt the learning process. Treats that are too big or difficult to chew could distract your dog from the exercise.

In addition to food, games can also be a fantastic reward. Especially for very active dogs who like to fetch or tug, a short moment of play after a successful exercise can be a real motivational boost. However, it is important that you adapt the type of reward to the training in question. While a game can work well after an active exercise, it could be counterproductive during rest training.

One of the most effective types of reward is the so-called need-orientated reward. This means that you reward your dog with what gives him the most pleasure at that moment - be it a treat, a game or your full attention. For some dogs, even a kind word or a loving touch is enough to make them feel rewarded. It is important that you know your dog well and understand his preferences. What he perceives as a reward in one situation may change in another.

In dog training, the balance between reward and punishment is often discussed. However, effective training consists not only of praise and treats, but sometimes also of corrections that serve to interrupt unwanted behaviour. There are two important concepts here: Negative Reinforcement and Positive Punishment.

Self-rewarding behaviour is a common problem in training. The first priority in any training programme is to avoid mistakes. It is the human's job to design the environment for the dog in such a way that our dog cannot show any opportunities for misbehaviour. The magic word is "limitation". For example, if you are training with a dog that cannot concentrate well, it can simply run away from the training situation and discover a fun game for itself. Running away was then self-rewarding, because practising is boring and running away is cool. Happiness hormones reinforce running away so strongly that your dog finds the treat in your hand less attractive. Giving a piece of food in exchange for an emotional high is not very attractive to your dog and therefore running away will accumulate in the future.

You can, however, limit the training by putting your dog on a lead or at least a house lead during training so that he cannot escape the training situation. Running away is a self-rewarding behaviour, or to put it more simply: your dog's hobby. The house lead is very helpful to be able to intervene in different situations at home without having to touch the dog directly. With the help of a house lead, the human can act more calmly and purposefully and encourage alternative behaviour.

When training new behaviour, it can always happen that your dog does not show the behaviour you set as a goal from the start. In the beginning, you can overlook minor mistakes and simply ignore them by only giving the dog a reward if it performs the desired behaviour. In most cases, targeted positive reinforcement is sufficient to build up new behaviour.

If your dog has forgotten an exercise because you haven't practised it for a long time, you can simply start as if you had never done the exercise before. After a few runs, the forgotten exercise should be refreshed.

In the context of correction, we must always be aware that every correction triggers negative emotions in the dog. It is therefore important after every correction not to leave the dog in a negative emotional state, but to subsequently facilitate positive emotions and experiences. Show your dog that you don't want him to eat the horse droppings. As soon as your dog stops Eat, you can teach him an alternative behaviour and praise him for successfully performing it. This teaches your dog that eating horse droppings is stupid, walking into people's feet is rewarding and great.

Any kind of correction triggers an unpleasant feeling in our dog, which is why corrections should be used sparingly and in a very targeted manner. The type of correction always depends on the consequence of the unwanted behaviour. A dog that does not sit directly does not need to be corrected immediately, but should be lured. On the other hand, it makes a difference if the dog does not want to "sit" and then simply runs away. The consequence of the second scenario is that the dog rewards itself by running away. This can be followed, for example, by a verbal correction and then putting the dog on a lead when practising.

As a rule, verbal correction is a perfectly appropriate and sufficient method of correcting the dog. A clear "No!" or "Er, er, er" and clapping your hands or stamping your foot on the floor is sufficient. If the dog jumps onto the table with its front paws to catch food, the dog can be pushed off the table with a clear "No!" and the flat of your hand and sent to its place. The dog learns that it should not get on the table and that the alternative behaviour is to go to its place. Violence or other forms of manhandling are absolutely not proportionate and not necessary! The same applies to ignoring. A dog can be ignored for begging at the table, but ignoring it all day long is completely disproportionate and has no comprehensible reason for the dog and therefore no learning effect.

Successful dog training requires patience, consistency and clear communication. Start in a low-stimulus environment and slowly increase the distractions to consolidate what you have learnt. Consistency is the key: only through regular practice and repetition can your dog internalise new behaviours.

Rewards, whether food, play or praise, are the most important motivators. Also use secondary reinforcers such as clickers to support training. Corrections such as negative reinforcement (removing a stimulus) or positive punishment (adding a stimulus) should be used judiciously to interrupt unwanted behaviour.

Set yourself realistic expectations and build a strong, trusting bond with your dog step by step. With patience and positive reinforcement, you will achieve long-term success together.